Ultimate Skin Care Guide for Beginners
Everything You Need to Know about Skin Care: Part One
This part will focus mostly on decrypting ingredients, some basic terminology and moisturizer.
I think we can all agree when I say, skin care and figuring out what all of the ingredients do, can be a little…overwhelming, right? (if you don’t agree, I mean, we can’t all be well-informed scientists, okay?)
After turning 25, I started to realize I needed to put in a little effort in taking care of my skin. You know, my usual method of half-assedly scrubbing my face to death and maybe putting on a moisturizer just wasn’t going to cut it if I wanted to fruitlessly attempt to look young forever. (Much like I’ve been realizing I can’t just eat whatever I want, when I want, and then hardly move on my days off anymore - but let’s save that for another post.)
So, similar to how food labels can be misleading, skin care companies often take to this same tactic when marketing their products. You know, just because your loaf of brioche bread has natural or organic written on the wrapper, doesn’t mean it’s healthy, Linda. Who am I kidding, Linda is going gluten-free for lent, she’s not eating brioche.
Now, more than ever, as the cosmetic industry continues to grow and product prices continue to inflate, it is important to understand what you’re getting in each item.
Disclaimer: I am not a dermatologist - just a skin care enthusiast.
So, in my own journey to take better care of my skin, over the last year or so, I’ve learned quite a few helpful things and I thought some of my friends might be in a similar, clueless boat. Instead of trying to send it to them all via text, I figured why not make it a blog post. If you’re interested in learning more about skin care, but don’t feel like personally doing too much internet digging, keep on reading! (Honestly, knowing more will just save you from buying over-priced products that ultimately don’t do much for you)
Let’s go over some of the basics
Before you go out purchasing products for your routine, there’s a few key words you’ll need to learn to help understand the lists of ingredients in the different products.
Non-comedogenic: usually means the product is specifically formulated not to cause blocked pores
I have heard companies test how comedogenic a product is on mice skin or rabbits’ ears, which isn’t exactly the same as human skin.
Each person’s skin will react differently to different things.
The FDA has a definition for comedogenic but doesn’t regulate or have a list of products that are for sure comedogenic or non-comedogenic.
So it would appear, companies can claim a product to be non-comedogenic, but in actuality - that doesn’t really mean anything / have any evidence to back it up.
Human sebum can be comedogenic naturally, so it really depends on what your skin is like and how it usually reacts to different things.
Occlusives: ingredients that create a physical barrier which helps retain moisture in the skin and hair. So, moisture can’t escape easily, nor can it penetrate. (They can feel heavy on the skin)
Oils & Waxes: petrolatum, mineral oil, paraffin, squalene, shea butter, beeswax
Silicone Derivatives: dimethicone, cyclomethicone
Fatty Acids: lanolin acid, stearic acid
Fatty Alcohols: lanolin alcohol, cetyl alcohol
Humectants: ingredients that attract water and bring moisture to the skin and hair, pulling moisture from the air or from deeper levels of your skin. (can feel sticky on the skin)
polyethylene glycols (PEGs), silicones, urea
aloe, honey, hyaluronic acid, glycerin
sorbitol, AHAs
Emollients: ingredients that soften or soothe the skin, but can also provide occlusive properties.
butters, oils, esters, fatty acids, lipids
generally feel nice on the skin
Collagen: the main connective tissue in the skin
This is what makes the skin elastic
Let’s talk about moisturizer
If you aren’t currently using a moisturizer at least once a day, my question to you is - why? If you’re saying to yourself, well you would but sometimes you just forget, I understand. Before it’s a habit, the task of washing, toning, and moisturizing twice a day seems daunting. I know that for some, even a two step routine feels like too much.
If I didn’t have acne as a teenager, I probably wouldn’t have cared much about washing my face at all, but anything for vanity. Of course, now I know there are a lot of things you can do to help achieve your best skin, such as changing your pillow cases frequently, but back then I figured, if I dry my skin out enough, it MUST get better. (WRONG!) The point was, that this process became a bit of a habit for me early on and that’s the key. Just add it to your routine and keep going, even if you forget a day.
Eventually, you won’t even think twice about the “ritual” and you’ll thank yourself later when you see your radiant skin in the mirror.
Some of you might be thinking, “I’m already really oily, I don’t need moisturizer,” or “I hate the way it sits on my skin, I like feeling clean.” I thought similar things myself. However, the over-production of oil usually is caused by your skin being dry. The simple act of water on skin itself plays a role in drying out the skin. In order to prevent your skin from over balancing, you need to PUT ON MOISTURIZER.
Pro Tip: Apply the moisturizer while your skin is still damp.
If your issue is with how your skin feels after putting on moisturizer, I recommend trying out a different type. Let’s talk about skin types and the texture of moisturizer that will generally work best.
Oily Skin
Typically, a gel moisturizer works best for someone with oily skin as it usually sinks into the skin quickly and doesn’t feel heavy. You could also look for something water based, but it sort of depends on whether or not you’re putting it under makeup and the type of makeup you’re using.
I tend to fall under this category, but I like using something a little heavier at night to help balance out my skin.
Dry Skin
If your skin tends to be flaky or dry, I would try out a cream type moisturizer. These products are generally a little more oil based and heavier than lotion. Generally, you’re going to need something a little more heavy duty.
Normal - Combination
Lucky you! Not too dry, not too oily. For someone with normal or combo skin, they generally recommend a straight up lotion. This is what most people think of when they think of a moisturizer. It’s something heavier than gel but not quite as thick as a cream, thus absorbing quicker.
Night vs. Day Cream
Like I mentioned earlier, I like to switch up my moisturizers or even sometimes, layer them. In the morning, I go for something with an spf (if I’m venturing out of my house that day) or something that’ll protect you from environmental aggressors. If I’m wearing makeup that day, I’ll go for something water based or if I’m planning on working a long shift, I’ll skip moisturizer altogether (for longevity purposes).
However, my night routine is when I go ALL OUT. I like to make sure I put on a moisturizer (or layer up) that has humectants, emollients, and occlusives. I want to attract all the water and stop it from leaving the skin. I also like to top it all off with a little bit of whatever oil I’m trying out at the time.
I’m not sure if it’s because I’m getting slightly older or because I’ve been keeping up with my routines, but I’ve really noticed my skin being a lot less of a giant oil slick than it usually was. I’d like to bet that my routine of oiling it up at night has really stopped my skin from feeling the need to over-produce oil.
Ingredient Basics
Let’s get into more of the specifics behind skin care. It is important to know that there are quite a few chemical, scary sounding synonyms for these different ingredients. If you need a chemical name translator, I recommend www.ewg.org/skindeep.
Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) : chemical exfoliants
Dissolves the cellular glue thus exfoliating dead skin cells
May reduce wrinkles & photo-damage
Ideal for mature skin
Don’t use on broken skin
Water soluble
Some examples include:
glycolic acid
lactic acid
mandelic acid
citric acid - naturally derived from fruit
Beta-hydroxy acid (BHAs): chemical exfoliants
Oil soluble
Most common form is salicylic acid
More effective on oily skin
Salicylic Acid
natural, derived from willow bark (fun fact: where we get aspirin),
can penetrate and clear out pores.
Not anti-bacterial, so pair it with benzoyl peroxide for acne
can be drying
a concentration of 0.5% to 2% is recommended
Retinol: part of the retinoid family, a synthetic vitamin A
smoothing/ helps texture
firming
boosts skin cell turnover
small molecular size
so it can get REAL deep in the skin
blocks the buildup of excess oil from causing acne
rich source of antioxidants
boosts collagen production
L-Ascorbic Acid: pure vitamin C
usually in a concentration of 5%-15%
anti-oxidant
Brightening
collagen producing & antioxidant protection
combats ill-effects of UV damage
improves efficacy of sunscreen
difficult to keep stable - look for packaging that doesn’t allow light to come through
Hyaluronic Acid: a natural polysaccharide
hydrating
humectant
our skins’ natural HA production begins to decrease in our thirties
formulation matters!
micronized HA is formulated at a molecular weight that can’t pass through the skin barrier
can be derived from animals (important to know if you’re cruelty free!)
Niacinamide: derived from vitamin B3
Water-soluble vitamin
fights acne, aging, water loss and discoloration
increases ceramide & fatty acid levels within skin
prevent dryness and stimulates microcirculation in the dermis
anti-inflammatory
aids in treatment of rosacea and psoriasis
stimulates production of new skin cells, triggering your body to produce collagen
Ceramide I & II: lipids
act as a barrier against bacterial & environmental pollutants
natural production diminishes with age
helps plump the skin
Peptides: messengers between skin cells
small amino acid chains found in the epidermis and dermis layers of skin
naturally occurring
help regulates hormonal activity
stimulates wound healing
activate or deactivate immune responses
Vitamin E: AKA tocopherol (super common in skin care)
one of the most potent sources of antioxidants
can protect & repair your skin and hair from pollution, free radicals and UV rays
important for daytime use!
your body cannot naturally produce
barrier for your skin
Glycolic Acid
Restricted for use in cosmetics (Canada)
Derived from cane sugar
Smallest molecule in the AHA group
Gets deep
Lactic Acid
Gentler for sensitive or darker skin tones
One of the most popular AHAs
Found naturally in milk, but usually synthetically made for products
Helps the skin retain its own moisture
Makes your skin more sensitive to sun
Citric Acid
mostly used to adjust the pH levels in products
if used only for this purpose, it doesn’t have to be listed in the ingredients
Naturally derived from fruits
Restricted for use in cosmetics (Canada)
Mandelic Acid
naturally occurring
derived from bitter almond & wild cherry
larger molecule that dissolves more slowly (makes it gentler on the skin)
anti-microbial
good for cystic acne and comedones
Okay, that was a lot of info, I know. There’s a lot more info out there, too.
So let’s just start there. If you can start being consistent with moisturizer and really making sure you have a better understanding of what’s in your products before you buy them, I think you’d be off to a really great start.
This includes guys, too. skincare isn’t just a feminine thing, ok?
Check back for part two, where I’ll talk about cleansers, toners, serums and sunscreen! I hope you learned something because I really did learn while writing this. Thanks for reading.
